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Well now you've just lost me. Derby shoes are clearly the superior choice here because they fit a range of feet widths and sizes more appropriately. And are more appropriate to transition to a happy hour after work for that matter. Until the Ozempic has done its work forcing overweight people into Oxford shoes is I am sure against both the Geneva convention and general aesthetics! We should leave the torture for Guantanamo and/or whatever camp we have to open in Canada as the 51st state.
Plus you didn't specify the color of the suit and I will not be caught dead in black Oxford shoes with a navy blue suit! The youth of today are simply wrong on that front. And since pale skin looks better in a navy blue suit than a black suit, let us not discriminate against white people. Suit and tie is fine, allow either navy blue or black, perhaps even charcoal, but let's allow black or brown Oxford or Derby shoes. Let's at least leave some room for some sartorial elegance. We can leave the government Men in Black look behind behind us. No brogues though, I think we can agree on that.
More seriously black Oxfords with a black suit is very formal which means you have not much room (except a tuxedo) to dress up further for important meetings or events. So navy blue suits with a brown Derby shoe for day to day use, with a black suit and a black Oxford shoe for when you are meeting the President or pleading with DOGE or similar. Tuxedo with the Oxford (or perhaps even a wingtip if you are feeling like causing a scandal!) for when you make it to a White House gala. That gives you 3 specific "grades" of formality with distinct looks.
Luckily we do not need to consider what to wear to one of Diddy's White parties because a white suit is just gauche.
Bring back morning dress. Seriously. It is just about hanging on in the UK, mostly at Royal Ascot and daytime weddings. It has died out in the US to the point where Americans wear black tie at formal daytime weddings.
Watch out for @die_workwear and his crack team of Kingsman agents if you wear brown in town.
Plain black is for mourning-with-a-u or evening. It doesn't look good in full daylight - the most formal business suits are charcoal grey. Morning-without-a-u coats are usually black, but the trousers are not.
If we are bringing back higher standards of dress, a formal evening event at the White House should surely be White Tie?
Yes! Please! I love tailcoats. And it's not as though they're any harder to deal with than regular coats / jackets. One of the projects that's been on my mind for ages is finding a tailor / costumier willing to experiment with 'casual' tail coats.
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Yees but we're talking about the entire male federal workforce here, we're already asking them to have 3 levels of fanciness. I'm not sure we can go with white tie as well. Maybe that's if they get invited to get the Medal of Freedom or whatever.
As for no brown in town. I repudiate them! A brown Oxford or Derby looks much better with a navy suit than black. And I wore brown in town all the time in my time in the City, and no-one ever assaulted me with an umbrella. A charcoal grey suit is a good choice though. But unless we are providing a fashion budget (re-allocate USAID funds to tailors for the Feds?), I am not sure how many suits we can expect them to have and keep well tailored.
Neufert's architectural reference is excruciatingly utilitarian, measuring everything to squeeze out every square centimeter. Here's what it uses to size a man's closet:
If the Germans think a man should have seven suits, including a tux and tails, then why shouldn't much richer Americans have them?
An interest question given that this is presumably translated from German, but is the tailcoat supposed to be a morning coat or white tie? They are different designs of tailcoat for different purposes.
In the modern UK, I suspect a morning coat would be worn more often, but I can imagine the opposite being true elsewhere.
I expect it to be "der Frack", which is the white tie version. Give than the morning coat is called "der Cutaway" in German, I don't believe it's common there. I also think that the "black suit" on the list is "der Stresemann", a stroller suit.
The stroller has basically disappeared in the UK, with black-tie tier daytime events either switching down to suits or up to full morning dress. I support this trend, as I am not aware of anyone except Winston Churchill managing to look noticeably better in a stroller than a business suit.
Apparently barristers still wear it.
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Yes, one doesn’t really see morning dress in the Germanic world. White tie one sees occasionally, eg. certain balls during the season in Vienna.
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No brown in town, sorry.
Yes, aren’t black oxford shoes and a navy suit the standard business dress for men?
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