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PaperclipPerfector
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Be advised: this thread is not for serious in-depth discussion of weighty topics (we have a link for that), this thread is not for anything Culture War related. This thread is for Fun. You got jokes? Share 'em. You got silly questions? Ask 'em.
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Notes -
Here's a legitimately unhinged blog post: 15 fragrances in 5 different collections. I'll group 15 fragrances into 5 collections. These are ways that I'd organize a one, two, three, four, and five fragrance collection. I'm a man so I will be recommending mostly masculine fragrances. I will point out the feminine marketed fragrances if those are not your bag. I'll also only be suggesting fragrances I've tried and like. Further, I won't be double dipping, so I will be suggesting different fragrances in different situations. If I suggest one fragrance for warm weather, it'll generally be interchangeable if the same situation comes up in a later list. These are all my personal picks, so please don't get angry if you hate something I suggest or if your favorite isn't on here. Fragrance is personal and everyone has their own nose. Something I love might remind you of the worst day of your life. Finally, wear whatever you want, but be cognizant of the people around you. SECRETIONS MAGNIFIQUES (IYKYK) might be your favorite fragrance, but no one around you is going to be happy if you wear it in public in 90 degree weather.
Before I start:
Eau Fraiche, Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, and Parfum: Historically, these denoted different oil concentrations that fragrances came in. In fragrance, oils are what make the actual fragrance smell like what they smell like. Eau Fraiche would have 2-3% oil concentration, Eau De Cologne (EDC) would have around 5%, Eau de Toilette (EDT) would have 5-15%, Eau de Parfum (EDP) would have 15-25%, and Parfum would have >25%. These are not hard rules. In fact, in modern days, fragrance companies will use these are names instead of designations of oil concentration. For example, Versace Man Eau Fraiche is an Eau de Toilette concentration despite having "Eau Fraiche" in the name. A general rule of thumb is that as you go up (EDT to EDP) the fragrance will smell deeper, heavier, and more mature.
Notes: These are items that the fragrance should evoke when you smell it. Notes are broken into top, mid, and base. Top When a company releases a fragrance, they will release notes to help you imagine what you're smelling when you spray the fragrance on. Note that these are not necessarily indicative actual ingredients. A fragrance with a "Rose" note may or may not contain actual rose oil. A general rule of thumb is to think of notes as marketing pitches. The company is selling you the image of what you'll smell like. Because of the differences in a human's sense of smell and skin biochemistry, the fragrances you buy may or may not smell like what the notes indicate. This is also why it's important to test on your skin before you buy a fragrance. I'll be using notes from Fragrantica, a website that serves as a database for fragrances.
Opening and dry-down: These are related to notes. The opening is what the fragrances evoke when they're first sprayed on, and the dry-down is what they evoke after a few hours on the skin. These are also not hard rules.
Performance: How easy it a fragrance can be smelled after it's sprayed on. Performance is generally separated into projection, longevity, and sillage. Projection is how far away you can be smelled. Generally, projection is strongest when you first spray it on, and becomes weaker over time. Longevity is how long the fragrance can be smelled for. A fragrance with high longevity can last for a while day, and some are so powerful they can last multiple days. Sillage is a little weirder. Sillage refers to the "scent trail" that you leave when you walk by. Generally, all fragrances perform better in warmer weather, and fragrances designed for warm weather have weaker performance.
I'll try to make my list more beginner friendly. That means I'll lean toward fragrances that are readily available and not extremely expensive. There will be a few exceptions, but I'll point those out. Further, please sample fragrances before buying a full bottle, especially if you're going to be spending hundreds of dollars on a single bottle.
1 Fragrance Collection
If you're only going to wear a single fragrance, you need it to be a generalist. Something that's classy enough to bring to work or an event, but casual enough to wear in a t-shirt and shorts.
Chanel Bleu de Chanel Eau de Toilette
Top Notes: Grapefruit Lemon Mint Pink Pepper
Middle Notes: Ginger Nutmeg, Jasmine, Iso E Super
Base Notes: Incense, Vetiver, Cedar, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Labdanum, White Musk
Bleu de Chanel EDT, as the original "Blue" fragrance, serves all of those purposes. Blue fragrances (named after Bleu de Chanel) are fragrances that are clean and versatile, with a generally fruity/citrus opening and a musky or woody dry-down. These are all things that make Bleu De Chanel the perfect fragrance for any situation. The performance is average, but this is a positive. For a generalist fragrance, you generally don't want the fragrance to be incredibly powerful. Although it leans slightly youthful, BDC EDT is a fragrances for all ages and situation. If you're looking for something more mature, the EDP and Parfum are both great choices for every day. They iterate on the formula beautifully. The online consensus is that the EDP is the best in the line, but to my nose, the EDT is superior. There's a reason it innovated its own genre of fragrances.
2 Fragrance Collection
For two fragrances, you can have a little more variety. I'd separate the two into one for warm weather (Spring and Summer) and one for cool weather (Fall and Winter). In general, in warm weather, people like to smell cleaner and lighter. Think citrus, aquatic, and floral. In cold weather, those notes become a lot more muted, so during winter, you'll smell things that are a lot more robust. Think woods, spices, and booze notes.
Hot: Prada L'Homme Eau de Toilette
Top Notes: Neroli, Black Pepper, Cardamom, Carrot Seeds
Middle Notes: Iris, Violet, Geranium, Mate
Base Notes: Amber, Cedar, Sandalwood, Patchouli
While it's marketed as masculine, Prada L'Homme is quite feminine. The opening is quite powdery and floral, giving it a very make-upy feel. That being said, the fragrance very nice in warm weather. It's a very classy fragrance that really opens up in the warmer months. Again, performance is average, but that's not a problem in the warmer months. The fragrance is not necessarily groundbreaking, but it's a very nice fragrance in spring and summer. This may be a little feminine for a lot of people, but I'd suggest every man give it a try. It's a real shame that the line seems to have gotten the Old Yeller treatment in favor of the Luna Rosa line.
Cold: Maison Martin Margiela Replica Jazz Club Eau de Toilette
Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Neroli, Lemon
Middle Notes: Rum, Java vetiver oil, Clary Sage
Base Notes: Tobacco Leaf, Vanilla Bean, Styrax
I would call this a modern masterpiece. The tobacco, rum, and vanilla come together into something that is very evocative of its namesake, a jazz club. The fragrance is heavy and boozy, but still soft enough to be inviting. Its performance isn't as powerful as a heavy oud or heavy leather fragrance, meaning it's less noticeable in the deep winter, but during fall and a cool winter, Jazz Club serves me very well. This is legitimately one of my favorite cool weather fragrances. I love to smell this on myself. Another great cool weather from the Replica line is By the Fireplace. Personally, I'm less of a fan of it, but the consensus online is that it's neck and neck with Jazz Club within the line.
3 Fragrance Collection
With three fragrances, I'd do the same as before, but with a twist. One for warm, one for cool, and one for special occasions. When you get to 3 fragrances, you don't really need a generalist fragrance anymore, as you'll have one every-day scent for warm and one for cool. So the third fragrance should really be more for special occasions.
Hot: Armani Acqua Di Gio Eau de Parfum (2022)
Top Notes: Sea Notes, Green Mandarin
Middle Notes: Clary Sage, Lavender, Geranium
Base Notes: Mineral notes, Vetiver, Patchouli
This one is a little confusing as Armani has just released a new version of Acqua Di Gio Eau de Parfum in 2025. I haven't smelled that one yet. The 2022 version, however, is a fragrance that I am a huge fan of. While it's technically discontinued, it's still readily available. The fragrance is a more mature version of the original Eau de Toilette, with the florals stripped away and while adding more mineral notes. This fragrance is an example of a warm weather fragrance that performs well in most situations. However, the fragrance being an Acqua Di Gio means that it'll do its best work in in the warmer months. When I spray this on myself, I can get whiffs of it throughout the day, and every time I do, my mouth literally waters from the zesty citruses. Performance is strong. On my skin, this lasts an entire day and after I spray it on in the morning, I've gotten compliments from other people even in the evening. The original Eau de Toilette is the best selling male fragrance in history for very good reason, and the EDP updated it for a more modern audience. I'm sad to see it go and I'll probably get another bottle while it's still available.
Cold: YSL Y Eau de Parfum
Top Notes: Apple, Ginger, Bergamot
Middle Notes: Sage, Juniper Berries, Geranium
Base Notes: Amberwood, Tonka Bean, Cedar, Vetiver, Olibanum
This is another of the Big Three of the "Blue" fragrances. To me, however this is a lot less of a generalist fragrance than the other two. The apple top note gives this fragrance a sweetness that becomes cloying in summer. During spring, fall and winter, however, I think it lets the fragrance a way to cut through the cold air. From there, the tonka bean and woody base notes gives the dry down a heavier feel. To my nose, the fragrance does its best work in Spring and Fall. In Winter, you might need to spray more, but the sweetness helps the fragrance stand out in even cold weather. If you wanted a fragrance with a more stereotypical "Blue" smell, the EDP Intense replaces the apple top note with bergamot, which gives the fragrance a citrussy pop. Overall, Y EDP is sweet and warm while still being clean. Perfect for a cool day.
Special Occasion: Tom Ford Beau De Jour Eau de Parfum
Top Notes: Lavender Extract, Lavender
Middle Notes: Oakmoss, Rosemary, Mint, Basil, Geranium
Base Notes: Patchouli, Amber
In my opinion, this fragrance is what "Classic" smells like. Tom Ford made Beau de Jour specifically as a tribute to the classic aromatic fougeres of old. Classy, sophisticated, and mature, Beau De Jour goes perfectly with a suit or tux. The lavender, oakmoss, and rosemary gives the fragrance the classic masculine fragrance smell while the dry down has a sweetness that makes it less harsh than some other aromatic fougeres. If I had to classify it, it would be a Spring, Fall, and Winter fragrance as it becomes a little heavy in high heat, but for occasions, you'd generally be in air conditioned rooms, meaning the weather matters less. Overall, Beau De Jour is perfect for any formal occasion. I'm a huge, huge fan of this.
4 Fragrance Collection
With four fragrances, you'll have a fragrance for every season. Now, you'll be able to target a specific feel during specific seasons. Here is also where the prices of some of the fragrances that I mention will be creeping up. So far, pretty much everything can be found for ~$200 (Beau De Jour not withstanding), but now I'll be recommending things that are >$300 at full retail. This is why it's so important to sample and test before buying a fragrance. I've spent $300 on something that I haven't smelled before and hated it after smelling it. Don't be like me, especially when you're just starting out. Is it idiotic to spend that much on a fragrance? Yes. Am I an idiot? Also yes. Let's move on.
Spring: Diptyque Philosykos Eau de Toilette
Top Notes: Fig
Middle Notes: Fig Leaf
Base Notes: Fig Tree
You might be able to tell from the notes, but this fragrance smells like fig, fig leaf, and fig tree. Fruity, fresh, and light, Philosykos is the perfect spring fragrance to my nose. There's a sweetness from the fig fruit that makes the fragrance really fun. This is another fragrance that leans more unisex than masculine. I've smelled this multiple times on women and it's just as lovely on them as it is on my skin. I really love this on a warmer spring day. Performance is average but on a warmer spring day, it wafts beautifully. Absolutely try this. I cannot recommend this enough.
Summer: Maison Martin Margiela Replica Sailing Day Eau de Toilette
Top Notes: Sea Notes, Aldehydes, Coriander, Red Pepper
Middle Notes: Juniper, Iris, Amyl Salicylate, Rose
Base Notes: Seaweed, Ambergris, Cedar, Amberwood
This is a photorealistic ocean scent. As the marketing states, this is supposed to smell like sailing in the open ocean on a sunny day and to my nose, that's exactly what this smells like. Aquatic scents are very popular during summer because they smell light and clean, and this is encapsulates exactly that feeling. Performance is actually above average for summer fragrances, and in high heat, this will radiate off the skin very nicely. Personally, this is neck and neck for my favorite summer fragrance.
Fall: Dolce & Gabbana The One Eau de Parfum
Top Notes: Grapefruit, Coriander, Basil
Middle Notes: Cardamom, Ginger, Orange Blossom
Base Notes: Amber, Tobacco, Cedar
This might be a more controversial pick as traditionally, The One EDP is considered a more of a date night fragrance, but this has served my very well in fall. This fragrance is warm and soft, and it reminds me of a warm cashmere blanket. The fragrance is fresh enough to be used on a warm day, but it's also warm enough for cool weather. Performance is intimate, but that's fine if you spray slightly more. The fragrance is very very appealing, which also makes it great for a first date. This is a fragrance that's very hard to hate.
Winter: Cartier Oud & Santal Parfum
Notes: Sandalwood, Agarwood (Oud), Plum
This is probably the most challenging fragrance I will recommend. In some ways, this is probably the most simplistic fragrance on the list, as you might be able to tell by the note breakdown. On the other hand, to my nose, the fragrance is incredibly elegant, rich, and deep. In the summer, this will be extremely heavy and oppressive, but in the winter, it really comes into its own. This fragrance leans more mature and formal, and can serve you very will in a tuxedo provided you spray lightly. Performance in hot weather is beastly. This will choke people out if you spray too much of it. In cold weather however, this performs beautifully. Like I said, this will be very challenging for a beginner, so please please PLEASE try this before you buy a bottle. If this is something that you like, however, I think it will serve you very well.
5 fragrance collection
Same as before, but with an extra fragrance for special occasions. Some of these picks might be a little controversial, but I really do like these fragrances.
Spring: Essential Parfums Bois Imperial Eau de Parfum
Notes: Akigalawood, Woodsy Notes, Vetiver, Basil, Timur, Ambroxan, Patchouli
Here's another fragrance that doesn't have a full note breakdown. This is a very modern woody fragrance. In fact, to me this smells futuristic. Even though the fragrance focuses a lot on woods, it's not a heavy fragrance like Oud & Santal is. It's quite light for a woody perfume and to me, that's one of the main appeals. Performance on this fragrance is pretty strong, so on a warm day, I'd suggest lighter sprays. This fragrance leans more mature and is very masculine to my nose. On a warm spring day, this evolves into something that is very light and modern. This is a different take on a spring fragrance and I love it.
Summer: Acqua Di Parma Fico di Amalfi Eau de Toilette
Top Notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, Citron, Lemon
Middle Notes: Fig Nectar, Jasmine, Pink Pepper
Base Notes, Fig Tree, Cedar, Benzoin
This one is another fig fragrance, this time focused on the fig tree. Compared to Philosykos, it's a lot less fruity and a lot more green. This fragrance is from the Blu Mediterraneo line, which is Acqua Di Parma's summer focused line. Each fragrance in this line is named after an ingredient from a place. Fico di Amalfi is named after Figs from the town of Amalfi. This fragrance is very personal to me as it's what I wore the first time I went to Korea. In the 95 degree Seoul summer, this fragrance smells absolutely beautiful. Though the performance is average, I would slightly overspray and smell it throughout the day. Every time I smell this it reminds me of that trip. Even without my memory associations, the green notes in the fragrance is beautiful in summer. One of my favorites of all time and very much worth a sample.
Fall: Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir Eau de Toilette
Top Notes: Lavender, Lemon, Bergamot, Rosemary, Mint, Lemon Verbena, Basil, Artemisia
Middle Notes: Juniper, Carnation, Cinnamon, Coriander, Wormwood, Angelica, Jasmine
Base Notes: Oakmoss, Pine Tree Needles, Fir, Leather, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Cedar, Amber, Resins
At this point, Drakkar Noir can be considered a classic fragrance. A true powerhouse in the 80s and 90s, Drakkar Noir is one of the fragrances that has a reputation outside of just the people who are into fragrances. I've never tried a vintage bottle, but the consensus is that Drakkar Noir has been reformulated so that the performance isn't the bomb it was in the 80s and 90s, but the fragrance itself is still pleasant to my nose. A lot of people would say that this fragrance is outdated and played out, I believe that it's gone beyond that. Like Chanel No 5, I think Drakkar Noir is a classic. While there are more than a dozen notes listed in the fragrance, a simple description would be an aromatic fougere with edge. It's not my favorite aromatic fougere, but I find that for whatever reason, I love the way it smells in spring and fall. Not as sweet as Beau de Jour and more edgy, Drakkar Noir is a little too casual to use in formal situations. However, as an everyday wear, I think it definitely holds up.
Winter: Dior Sauvage Elixir
Top Notes: Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Grapefruit
Middle Notes: Lavender
Base Notes: Licorice, Sandalwood, Amber, Patchouli, Haitian Vetiver
Sauvage is another one of those fragrances that has transcended just fragrances, and for very good reason. Today, however, I will be recommending the Elixir. The first thing you'll notice is that compared to the EDT, Elixir is very different. Deep, heavy, and syrupy, there's almost none of the youthfulness of the EDT left. The second thing you'll notice is that the performance on Elixir is nuclear. When I spray this, if I plan on being indoors for a long period of time, I legitimately have to spray in half sprays. I have sprayed this in the morning, gone through a whole day, taken a shower, gone to sleep, woken up, and still smelled it on my skin. The fragrance is very rich, mature, and elegant (if you smell past the absolutely beastly performance), and is perfect for winter weather. The consensus on this fragrance is that it's also a very good fragrance for Middle Eastern market. Whatever your feelings are on the original Sauvage, give this a try. It's quite different and in my opinion, great for winter.
Special occasion: Creed Aventus Eau de Parfum
Top Notes: Bergamot, Black Currant, Apple, Lemon, Pink Pepper
Middle Notes: Pineapple, Patchouli Moroccan Jasmine
Base Notes: Birch Musk Oak Moss Ambroxan Cedarwood
Finally, we have Creed Aventus. Probably the first niche fragrance that has broken into the mainstream, the influence of Creed Aventus cannot be overstated. It wouldn't be inaccurate to say that the modern landscape was changed with the release of this fragrance. Nowadays, however, the fragrance is very much maligned. There are many accusations of reformulation, with people paying up to a thousand dollars for older batches of the fragrance. The house itself also has come under controversy, with many calling into question the marketing history of the house of Creed itself. Creed as a house has even been in a rivalry with Mont Blanc (they've released some great fragrances in their own right). But let's leave that behind us. When I first sprayed Aventus on myself, it opened my eyes. To me, this is what a man should smell like. The fruit on top makes the fragrance instantly appealing while the woodiness in the base gives it an edgy base that just makes the fragrance magnetic. I have a 2021 batch and I've never smelled an older batch (I'm not going to pay $10 per ml for any perfume) but my bottle smells sublime. Performance is below average, but with how powerful the atomizer is, it's not that big of a problem. There's a reason that it's known as "The King of Fragrances" among the enthusiasts and I believe that everyone needs to at least smell Creed Aventus.
Edited for formatting and other mistakes.
That was honestly very cool. My mom is a huge perfume nerd with a massive collection and my wife loves heavy, musty notes that I hate, like patchouli and vetiver. This made me prefer only the freshest and most inoffensive notes possible, but I can't smell them very well after covid, so I currently own a zero-fragrance collection.
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I don’t think this unhinged.
Thanks for writing so much about a passion topic for you! As a one-cologne guy, it’s pretty interesting.
Haha thanks. What's your one cologne, if you don't mind me asking.
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