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Notes -
This matches with my experience. And yes, the food, in winter, is a massive standout.
At the same time, it was impossible to not see the small marks of Hell Joseon everywhere. In the lines of people's faces, in the stark reminders of class and what it means to be well-connected. In the bluster of middle aged guys getting wasted with no real future, in the stressed, overworked and over-studied youth.
I found a small, out of the way vinyl store in an almost abandoned office building, clearly made of someone's personal collection and not really intended as a way to make money as I was likely the only visitor all day. The place was entirely unattended, although the lights and heater were on. I wasn't noticed as I browsed, and it struck me as profoundly peaceful.
The clam soup with knife cut noodles is utterly fantastic. In bone-chilling weather, it was one of the best meals I've had in my life. Seoul also boasts, for my taste, the best coffee I've had in Asia.
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