helmut_hofmeister
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User ID: 846

Love this plan overall.
For wiring - for a kind of best of all worlds scheme that’s not too complicated: Standard V/T controls with a .68 or 1.0 microfarad capacitor (dark) and a push-pull to bypass the tone completely/or have different cap values (bright switch) or use a no load pot for the tone so it’s completely out of the mix when dimed.
Pickups: Duncans are great. I built a very vintage-sounding P with an SPB-1 and GHS precision flats (and a foam mute over steel threaded saddles). Not crazy high output but it has that thud and is warm and dark for sure. I would guess AII’s are a bit more 60’s voiced than the SPB-1, but we are not talking modern here in any case.
My favorite boutique P pickup is the Arcane 65, and I’ve had good luck with a few others too, Fralin and Fender vintage ‘63 come to mind. Any of these and more will get there. Pickups are a matter of personal taste and voodoo guitar parts synergy anyway. The right flatwounds are most of it probably.
Necks: I usually buy a Fender neck unless I need something specific. For example, I play fretless and I hate lined fretboards, so I have used Warmoth fretless bass necks almost exclusively. I’ve got one that’s about 30y old and one that’s about 5Y old. they’re consistent and high quality.
Oh, invest in lightweight tuners :)
Sorry for the slow reply.
you for sure will have a major head start and avoid a slew of potential headaches buying at least a basic formed body - the brodge/neck/pickup alignment is the key and MOST aftermarket is based on Fender specs, so even a rather unfinished body will get you there and allow you to experiment with the finish. Of course you can also buy a fully finished or paint ready body or one parted out from a factory guitar. If you’re in the States/North America, there’s an eBay seller called Tone Bomb that does good basic shaping and they’re inexpensive. Warmoth, Allparts, and WD all make finished and unfinished bodies at various prices, etc.
I have gotten away from too much sanding and finishing, in the interest of spending more time on the wiring and setup and to avoid the dust and fumes, but it was an invaluable experience to start from a rougher stage for sure.
I’d be interested in hearing what parts you are thinking about - pickups and wiring options and such. even with simple circuit like on a P bass there a lot of options depending on your preference and price. I’ve had fun and good results working on everything from $200 Indonesian Squiers to fancy American Fender stuff, the main suggestion I’d make here is to not mix spec quality too much.
Setup: neck relief is step 1. the truss rod is only for neck relief (curvature) once the bass is strung up and neck is under tension. Capo 1st fret, fret last fret, measure string to fret distance at 8th fret. A good machined fine measuring tool in 64ths helps here but you could use a feeler gauge or post it notes in a pinch. Off top of My head Fender recommends .015” in relief.
Once relief is set, adjust intonation by ear (12th fret should match 12th fret harmonic) or by measure (34” 1st strong and staggered back by string gauge - works well enough.)
Then adjust nut slot depth and bridge saddle height to set action. For a low B you might need to widen any stock nut. Good nut files help a lot but are $. Nut should be cut to about .01 inches above the height of the 1st fret to account for relief.
Shimming: You’d shim the neck at the heel of the saddles don’t adjust low enough for appt. 5/64” action measured at the 17th fret
Bridge setup - if your bass body doesn’t come with the standard 5-hole Fender pattern or piloted pickup mounting holes, you have to mount the neck and pickup to the body and go from there. A cheat/hint: if you’re using p bass parts, then a factory pick guard CAN be a good visual aid but don’t rely on it exclusively.
Bridge placement: The 1st string saddle (G or D in your case) should measure about 34” from the witness point of the nut, the other saddles staggered slightly away from the nut. So leave yourself room to use the intonation adjust screws to fine tune. For side/side positioning - use a string or elastic to mimic the string path on either side of the neck - easier to do than explain.
Notes on finish: I’ve done tru oil on walnut, ash, and a random 80’s Ibanez p-copy that I stripped.
I didn’t do a stain but you’d do that first. I’d probably hand rub it with a rag.
I also didn’t bother with filling the grain past a certain point on the walnut or ash - those are open grained and I like the look. That said you can fill the grain by sanding wet with the oil and wiping the residue away. TO is best applied gradually in small thin amounts.
This has been a hobby of mine for many years - I’ve built dozens of fender-shaped parts casters including selecting the bits, setups, fretwork, wiring, some woodwork/routing, and finish work. It’s generally not a value proposition if you care about resale value but you can really specialize. The tools are expensive and specialized but you can get by with a few basics to start. I’d start with a few questions. Are you a player? What kind of guitar project do you have in mind? What skills do you have or how involved, etc. glad to discuss what I’ve learned.
Leviathan shaped hole perhaps
Direct quote from an in-law, western North Carolina, circa 2005: “what kinda coke y’all want? Sprite?”
Lynn, Leslie and Kimberly were all common enough male British names too.
If I’m remembering correctly, there was a radiolab / NPR something podcast on this very topic
I have to say, as an accomplished and fast road cyclist, e-bikes have ruined everything. People’s skills and awareness generally rise with experience and the shortcut (e-bike) means the roads are now packed with idiots who don’t know what they’re doing. You expect a rider who can pace at 20-25 mph to have the skills commensurate with their fitness. E-bikes ruined that. It’s decidedly worse now for actual cyclists. Delivery guys and out of shape people without the situational awareness of a seasoned rider have no place on a heavy, dangerous electric moped going 25 mph.
I think that this has changed over time. I am old enough to have known many WWII vets and they almost universally hated the Japs and did not really admire them even in the most begrudging fashion. the common adjectives describing Japanese soldiers would have been more like fanatical, honor bound, or suicidal. More like a death cult than an army. I think over the period of the Cold War, when Japan became more and more of an economic and strategic ally, and as the WWII generation died out, that shifted. In the popular worldview, movies like TORA TORA TORA and later films like Letters from Iwo Jima contributed as well.
I’m 99.9% lurker too and I echo your sentiments exactly. Headlines elsewhere invariably drive me here in lieu of their own native comments sections. There’s nowhere else.
Probably can provide some advice - It largely depends on what your role will be but here’s a bit of what I’ve learned (25Y in the private sector, now sr. mgmt). Since it’s a new environment for you, first off I’d listen and observe. try to get a sense of who among your colleagues get things done, if you’re interacting with managers be cognizant of where the alliances and fissures between areas are, listen more than you speak at first. Some orgs are internally competitive, some are not, a lot depends on the personality and attitudes of the corporate leadership. Of course YMMV depending on your particular situation.
Husband to a US physician here and I have to say that this comment and some of your previous ones strike me as very accurate based on my observing her med school / residency / fellowship and placement experiences. They can’t pay people enough to work in underserved areas. $500k a year is good money but not necessarily worth it to live in a cultural desert full if resentful unhealthy poor people, boring food, bleak weather, etc. some doctors HAVE to choose their specialty for financial reasons, etc.
Antony Beevor’s book on the Spanish Civil War is excellent and comes from a relatively neutral perspective
Having met Bill Clinton in a random and non-political situation, I can say that this is spot on. Guy was on the way to Chelsea’s bday party or something and I remain convinced that he would have preferred to stand there chatting with me instead.
Salting too early also causes moisture to seep to the surface which prevents browning. Same thing to roast a chicken. Salt goes on right before heat or days before heat like a dry brine. Anywhere in between is wrong.
Bullying hasn’t gone away either. We may also be seeing a trade off between physical bullying and cyber bullying.
Something about the immediate and stark reality of an unsupervised playground seems to me to be painful but brutally honest in a way that is a microcosm of actual life in future meatspace.
(For reference I was in HS and university in the 90s. I’m not a gamer, I like 70’s 2-channel audio, and i don’t have twitter, so for me “online” is work, bills, and escapism. I don’t “live” here the way I think many younger people do)
I can’t imagine how terrible cyber bullying must be by comparison to what we had to endure in the 90’s for people who are invested in virtual life. Online the social signals are so complicated and the separation or anonymity imposed by screens brings out the worst in people. If this is a microcosm of the developing future societal order - social credit and AI - I feel somewhat sorry for those who don’t know what life was like before all that.
Also - the 80s were an awesome time to be a little kid.
I also am intrigued by the notion of heterodox beliefs being a kind of peacock’s tail. I’ve thought a lot about how to maintain my integrity in an environment that is hostile to my worldview. I have a lifelong compulsion to point out the gray areas to black/white thinkers and it’s both helped and hindered me at times in my life.
Anecdote, but I live in a very prog area, I’m educated, and a bit older than my wife, who is an MD. Her circle (and thus my own) leans heavily conventional liberal to progressive.
How to be true to yourself and also be well liked? I think this applies to dating, but also just social interactions in general.
The trick is to not take the bait when one of your wife’s generically progressive friends spouts off some throwaway comment about the patriarchy (just an example). Because Dog is right - YOU may be interested in debating the point, but she’s probably not. It signals that you don’t know when to pick your battles or something.
For me, I’ve had to bite my tongue more than I’d prefer, but I’ve also showed my power level (am I using that term correctly?) on enough occasions that after a few years of familiarity, I can now roll my eyes at some of the more egregious comments that I hear and get away with it. I get to play the role of that republican guy from parks and rec (but I hope with a bit more elegance).
Of course it does not hurt that I’m not a socially awkward person. I’m confident in my beliefs and experiences, interesting, kind, reasonably attractive, successful, funny, and socially graceful in an aristocratic way. I also show up and do real-life nice things for people. So I can get away with the occasional Churchill quote and it somehow works for me.
Or put another way, in the dating scene ( which thank god I’m out of) it helps to be hot or at least socially adept.
In practice, yes indeed. Add to that list: Cis? Oppressor? Privileged? Stale pale and male?
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Kind of tangential, but would you mind briefly expanding on what your father considered “mono-culture” and how he discouraged it? My dad’s mantra was probably “actions have consequences’ but he also had a great disdain for bandwagon-type behavior and it struck me as potentially similar.
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